Flat on you back on the hotel bed, you ponder the arrow on the ceiling. Does it point past the minarets to the babbling pasar malam, fragrant with fruit and loud with language? Will it lead you to the shadowy artists of wayang kulit, or to your guide through underwater paradise? Does it prophesise a meeting with orang-utans in the unrivalled jungle beauty of Borneo? If you meet them, what on this lonely planet will you say?

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